Oh Turkey. You strange, wonderful and occasionally
infuriating country. Last week I let off after my first class failed to materialize.
I magically found a syllabus online, which hadn’t been there before and I
proceeded to try and find the readings. They weren’t available online so I
emailed the professor and she was super nice about the whole thing. So while things
aren’t necessarily reliable everyone is exceptionally kind and will bend over backwards
to help you. Which makes you wonder why it is that nothing works. Sometimes
such questions are best not to ask. I sometimes find Turkey more frustrating
than Azerbaijan. It goes something like this. Turkey is more developed than
Azerbaijan and also considerably less corrupt. These are good things. I like
national infrastructure and not being afraid of the cops. However, Turkey also
hasn’t joined the West fully either. It does not move with the precision of
say, the Germans, who believe that if a train is 3 minutes late civilization is
coming to an end. The end product is that you have a country where the bureaucracy
is complex, unwieldy and occasionally flawed, such as the entire residency
permit process. This is the same as in Azerbaijan but in Azerbaijan you just pay
various people and things go faster. In Turkey you cannot buy service like this
because it isn’t allowed anymore. So you just have to deal with the whole
makes-you-want-to-pull-your-hair-out-by-the-roots process. But it does make the
whole thing quite an adventure. My mantra from last summer is coming back to
life. For those of you who are approximately my age you will remember the TV
show “Whose line is it anyway”. I stole my mantra from them: everything’s made
up and the points don’t matter. I am fairly certain this is how life works
here. I do award myself points. Successful Turkish language interactions score
high. Bought bus tickets without a mishap? 5 points. Didn’t understand the
waiter? -1 point. But they don’t actually mean anything. But I still do it. It’s
just the rest of reality is made up too so sometimes life can be a little
confusing.
On Tuesday I went to my Turkish for foreigners class and
realized that it had been mislabeled. It should be called “Turkish for foreigners
who are actually native speakers of Turkish”. I was in just a little over my
head. The Professor spoke only in Turkish for the entire class, but I followed
along, so that felt good. She said that perhaps some people should be in other
Turkish classes. This was a problem. I now saw the class as a personal challenge.
I like to take on challenges. Heck, I started learning Turkish in the first
place, I obviously can’t be dissuaded easily from a goal once I’ve started. So
I tried to buy the textbook for the class the next day so I could come out of
the gate strong. This being Turkey the text book was only made available a half
hour before class began the next morning so instead I sat through about 2 hours
of the teacher speed reading and then speed lecturing about the reading and not
saying a single word. In a moment of fear about my own abilities I attended the
Turkish for Foreigners low intermediate class that afternoon. I wanted to fly
under the radar and was of course, spotted within 5 seconds by the teacher. The
class was 2 hours long and I figured out pretty quickly that it would be too
easy for me. Some of the students seemed pretty good but I like a challenge and
that class wasn’t it. I did meet a girl who had done CLS Bursa though so it was
fun to recount the strange adventures that are CLS institutes over a cup of
chay.
I spent these evenings pretty quietly, at home watching a
movie or chatting with roommates and the like. Wednesday night I tried out the
dining hall here on campus and I have to say, for 1.5 TL (83 cents or so) the
food was pretty darn good. I finished up my Sherlock Holmes story in Turkish
which I started on Monday night on South campus, sitting on a bench while the
sun went down and slowly being surrounded until I had a herd of cats that
numbered about 15 and decided that I never actually wanted to be that crazy cat
lady and so moved.
The week had been pretty frustrating up to this point
because all I really wanted was something to do, classes to go to, homework to
read or write, something anything to fill my time. And I couldn’t find
anything. Wednesday the pace picked up and I was able to spend a good chunk of
time doing the reading for my Turkish class. On Wednesday I also decided with
my friend Sarah that it was time to get out of Istanbul and start to see the
country. Specifically, we would go to Edirne, since I really wanted to go and could
arrange a hotel, bus tickets etc for the weekend. Having made this decision, I
was able to happily spend several hours online looking at how we were arrive
there, how best to time our arrival and departure and looking for a reasonably
priced hotel near the center of town. I also spent some time looking at what
all was in Edirne and compiling a list of my must-dos while there. I really always should be given something to
do.
Thursday I slept though high intermediate Turkish, which I
had considered checking out but it conflicts with my chem course, which I do
actually have to take so I decided it was for the best anyway. Instead I bought
the course pack for the class and will work on it on my own. I know most of the
grammar concepts being taught in the course already anyway, but a little
practice never hurts. Then in the afternoon I went to my other anthropology
course, which ended up being pop culture in the Middle East, and I am super
excited about it. The professor was a little surprised at how many were in the
class and the fact that none of us had been able to access to the syllabus but
she took it in her stride and chatted with us for a while before letting us
out. I went with Sarah and bought bus tickets without any mishap (5 points) and
we booked out hotel, which is actually an apartment, but whatever. I had dinner
in the cafeteria and then I met up with my Turkish roommate Ayşe for tea and cake. We went into a little café
and ordered. We ended up having a really wonderful conversion and probably
talked for 2 or 3 hours. She wanted to practice her English and I always need
to practice my Turkish so that was how we did it. She spoke English and I spoke
Turkish and we understood each other quite well. It was rather wonderful because
if I ever didn’t know the Turkish word, I just inserted the English one and she
did the opposite. The week ended far better than it began and I was grateful
for the resolution. My classes seem to be great, I’ve met some amazing people and
I have made progress in my spoken competency already in my 3 weeks here. I
cannot wait to see what happens after 3 months.
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